Bun Bo Hue

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Next to pho bo, there is nothing I love more than a steaming bowl of bun bo hue in the freezing winters of New England.  This self-professed Valley girl has now been living in New England for 18 years–yikes, that’s exactly half my life–and Vietnamese soups, especially bun bo hue was made for these winters!  The pungent, heady broth is seasoned with shrimp paste, lemongrass, shallots, annatto oil, and lots of chili powder and fish sauce (of course).  And the noodles, thicker and rounder than pho noodles, are chewy and substantive, better for standing up to the heady broth.

Traditionally, bun bo hue is often served with slices of pork meat, beef shank, oxtail, pork knuckles and cubes of pork blood.  Given that I am the only one in the family (or commune) who would eat most of that and since it really isn’t possible to buy just a couple of pork blood cubes at the local supermarket, I’ve simplified it to just slices of pork and beef shank.

Soup:
3 lbs pork bones
2 lbs beef bones (oxtail works well; if you can’t find beef bones, then go with all pork)
1 1/4 lbs pork butt or shoulder
1 lb beef shank or beef chuck (boneless if possible but cross cuts are okay, just get more in weight to compensate for the bone)
4 lemongrass stalks
1/8 pineapple in one or two chunks
1/4 cup fish sauce or to taste
2 teaspoons salt

Seasoning paste:
1 lemongrass stalk, finely minced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 shallots, finely chopped
¼ cup neutral oil (grapeseed or canola)
¼ cup fine shrimp paste
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional, more if you can handle it)
5 tablespoons bun bo hue spice package (use more or less to adjust spice level)

photo-763 bun bo hue noodle packages

photo-80Garnish:
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
3 green onions, thinly sliced
½ cup thinly sliced yellow onion
2 cups thinly sliced cabbage
2 cups bean sprouts
1 whole lime cut into wedges
one bunch Thai basil, rinsed and dried
perilla leaves (if available)

Pickled Onions:
1 medium yellow onion, sliced in half lengthwise and then thinly sliced
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2-3 pinches salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2-3 pinches freshly ground black pepper

Soup and meat: Bring a large (8-10 quarts) pot of water a boil, add several tablespoons salt.  Blanche pork and beef bones and meat in boiling water for 5 minutes, working in batches as necessary.  Make sure to submerge bones and meat entirely and replenish water as needed.  Rinse bones and meat thoroughly, and place in clean pot of water, making sure that all bones and meat are fully covered. Bring stock pot to slow boil, reduce to simmer.  for at least 5-6 hours (longer is better), skimming any impurities that rise to the top.

photo-77Trim 4 lemongrass stalks, cutting off both ends to leave 8-10 inches, and peeling the outer layer.  Slice each stalk in half lengthwise, bruise slightly with knife handle and tie each half into a knot and add to stock pot.   Add pineapple if using.

After 1-1.5 hours remove the pork meat and submerge immediately in cold water–less cooking time if pork is cut into smaller pieces.  Pork should be firm to touch, like the base of your thumb.  Once cool, discard water and thinly slice meat against the grain and set aside.

photo-79Cook beef shank for about 2 hours or until a chopstick inserts smoothly–again, adjust cooking time as necessary depending on size and cut (cross-cut) of shank.  Remove and submerge in cold water.  Once cool, discard water, thinly slice meat against the grain and set aside.

After 5-6 hours of simmering (feel free to simmer longer if you’d like but the longer the stock simmers, the more I would encourage straining before seasoning), remove and discard bones, lemongrass and pineapple.  Skim off any impurities or pieces of meat/fat that may have fallen off.

Seasoning paste:  Mince white and pale green parts of 2-3 lemongrass stalks to make ½ cup.  Finely chop one medium yellow onion and two shallots.  Heat oil on medium high heat, add onions and shallots and saute until fragrant (about 30 seconds). Add crushed red pepper (if using) and lemongrass and saute for another minute until onions are soft. Remove from heat and add shrimp paste, sugar, and bun bo hue spices.  Mix well and allow to cool slightly.  Store in airtight jar or container.  Use mixture to season soup stock and as dipping sauce at table.

photo-78To season soup, add ¼ cup fish sauce and ½ cup seasoning mixture to soup stock, add salt or additional fish sauce to taste.  Soup should taste pungent and spicy.  Soup stock can be left to simmer or on warm if serving immediately or even refrigerated for later use.  Reheat to simmer before using.

Pickled onions: Combine vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper in an airtight container, mix in sliced onions and press into the liquid.  Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 5 days.  Set out in small individual bowls at serving.

Cooking noodles: Cook noodles in plenty of boiling water (like pasta) until soft–about 15-20 minutes.  Drain, rinse and set aside.

cropped-img_3311-1.jpgAssembling bowls: Place about 1 ½ cups noodles in large soup bowl (first, warm bowl with some hot water), top with sliced meats, sliced onions, cilantro and sliced green onions.  Sprinkle with a dash of black pepper.  Pour hot soup over everything and serve immediately with pickled onions and a plate of herbs, lime, bean sprouts, and cabbage.

Makes 6-8 servings. 

 

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Feedback: beyond the soup bowl

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Hello readers!  It’s been just over a year since I started this blog and I’m still trying to get my footing.  Blogging has been quite an adventure and I’ve learned a few lessons (accompanied by a lot of ‘duh’ moments):

– Duh #1: It’s not easy to maintain consisting posting.  Even without a job, I find it hard to post consistently.  The added pressure of having to write a recipe and take good photos doesn’t help.

– Duh #2: Pictures are hard work!  Since our main meals are in the evening, lighting and general late-in-the-day family craziness makes taking photos of the cooking process and final dishes a challenge.  After a couple of months, I finally discovered the perfect spot for natural light in our kitchen–though that’s not entirely helpful when daylight disappears at 4:00 pm in New England.  And I joke that if one could ever pan out from my photos, you’d see a messy kitchen, toys strewn everywhere, and a toddler clinging to my leg.

– Duh #3: I have no idea what my “voice” is or supposed to be.  The focus of the blog is Vietnamese cooking, but how much can I deviate from that and still maintain a common thread?

– Duh #4: Vietnamese cooking is not easy, and it’s not easy to write the recipes and explain techniques.  The written word can only do so much and pictures are helpful, but I think I’m going to have to upgrade to add videos to demonstrate some of the harder techniques, such as making caramel sauce (without burning it!).

As I move forward with this blogging thing, I would love some feedback from my readers.   How is the format working for you?  Do you find the topics interesting?  Should I only post about Vietnamese food or would you welcome other recipes? Have the recipes worked?  Are there things I could do to make the recipes better?  And are there other dishes for which you would like me to post a recipe?  Anything else?  All thoughts and suggestions welcome!

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Family: the food, the bad, and the ugly

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We recently visited my family in LA, and as usual, the visit churned up a host of conflicting emotions. I have never had the best relationship with my mother, whose perspective and understanding of life is so very different from my own, and our differences have been exacerbated by both her age and mine. Lately, I’ve also been feeling increasingly guilty that my brother has taken on the responsibility of caring for our mother while I am more than 2,000 miles away. (Vietnamese guilt can rival Jewish guilt any day!) This last visit had the added stress of visiting my paternal uncle and his family, who had recently emigrated to Fresno. You see, my father and I are estranged and seeing his family brings up all sorts of issues. So, no trip to LA is ever JUST A VACATION, but thankfully, there is plenty of good food to help ease the frustration. What is it about family anyhow, where they kill you with guilt one minute, flatter you the next and then stuff you with yummy food until you can’t feel anymore?

Soup-er Boy has been asking more about family lately, particularly mine. He sees most of his father’s family (with the exception of the ones in the Philippines) regularly at Thanksgiving and other visits to Baltimore. On his father’s side, he knows his great-grandmother, aunts and uncles, cousins, and even remembers his great-grandfather. But on my side, he only knows of one grandmother, one uncle, and a couple of cousins. This wouldn’t be so bad except that my mother has 13 (no that’s not a typo), brothers and sisters, and endless nieces and nephews. So, where are they all? Mostly in SoCal, but I can’t see them. Long story short: my mother had a huge falling out with her siblings a few years ago and has excommunicated them all. Very GW Bush of her–you’re either with her or against her. Which means, of course, that I can’ t have any communication with them either–lest I want to be excommunicated as well. Sigh.

I can go on ad nauseam about how I think my mother has mishandled the situation, but alas, at the ripe age of 37, I know now that what I think won’t change a thing. And really, this isn’t even the root of my issues with my mother nor the only reason why my stomach goes into knots during every visit. No, there’s the fact that although her health is deteriorating she avoids physical activity, medical advice, medicine, follow-up visits, etc. Discussions about her health inevitably end up with her wishing that one of her kids had become a doctor! She also holds a grudge forever, and finds fault with everyone. Double sigh. And yet, filial piety is a strong thing. I can’t give up on her and my poor brother deals with her on a daily basis.

This is all a bit much to explain to a seven-year old who is only wondering if his mother has any cousins. So there was a part of me that was relieved to finally introduce him to my father’s nephews. And he was great. He didn’t complain at all about the 4 hour drive to Fresno. He dutifully ate everything that was placed in front of him. And he thoroughly enjoyed getting to know his cousins. It didn’t hurt that we took them all bowling, because really, what else is there to do in Fresno on a Sunday?

But there was the other part of me that dreaded the inevitable mentioning of my father. With every Vietnamese gathering there is food, and my aunt (uncle’s wife) had prepared a big pot of pho bo and cha gio (eggrolls) for our renunion. After the effusive and loud greetings, we were shuttled into the dining room for lunch. As I helped ladle out bowls of pho, she asked me if I talked with my dad frequently and I replied no. Well then, she said, we should call him right now! Uh oh. I just smiled grimly and asked my cousin how school was going. Thankfully, I think she got the point and didn’t mention it again. Oh, the pho was okay, a bit sweet for me, but the eggrolls were tasty and we were gratefully for something to munch on while the kids played and the older generation chatted. We spent the night at a nearby hotel and left for Bakersfield the next afternoon, where old friends, good food (brisket and latkes), and more importantly, no family tensions awaited us.

The rest of my time in LA was indeed full of good food. From silky smooth Tonkotsu ramen and messy kalbi tacos to Japanese hot pot and Baha fish tacos, I sought to ease the knots in my stomach. It worked to a certain extent. And now, more than one week later, I think the knots are finally easing.

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Blizzard 2013 refrigerator surprise: pineapple fried rice

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As we awaited blizzard Nemo, a storm billed as “historic” and likely to dump anywhere between 6 inches to 3 feet of snow in our neck of the woods.  Our town’s listserv had a running thread about what folks are cooking during the storm and answers have ranged from chile and swedish meatballs to faux pho, but I won’t beat that dead horse anymore.  I might be naive–and really, most of the time the weather reports around here really miss the mark–but I think roads and markets will be open within hours of the storm’s passing. I mean, it’s not like we’re Washington DC or Baltimore where 2 inches of snow means gridlock and a state of emergency. So I only had one thing on my list: pho, the real thing. But although the pot of pho is vast and could probably feed us and Next Doors for 3 days, I suppose I should consider making a few things that we could eat should we lose power (and gas?).

Hmm.  Refrigerator surprise time!  A quick scan of the fridge and I found: Chinese sausage, pineapple, carrots, chopped green onions, and rice (any self-respecting Asian always has cooked rice on hand).  Voila!  Pineapple fried rice!  This time, instead of using the pork fat still sitting in the fridge, I killed two birds with one stone by using the bacon grease from breakfast (don’t worry, I poured most of it out).

2 tablespoons bacon/pork fat/vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup chopped carrots
2-3 cups cooked rice
1/2 cup coarsely chopped/sliced Chinese sausage
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup fresh pineapple chunks
2 chopped scallions
2 tablespoons soy sauce
salt and pepper to taste
handful Thai basil leaves

Heat pork fat/oil over medium-high heat until hot, then add garlic and cook until fragrant–about 30-60 seconds.  Add Chinese sausage and cook for about 3 minutes, then add carrots and cook another 2-3 minutes.  Add pineapple chunks and cook for an additional 3-4 minutes, until pineapple begins to caramelize. Add rice and mix thoroughly.  Drizzle in eggs and stir to coat rice and cook eggs.  Season with soy sauce and salt to taste.  Remove from heat and stir in 1/2 scallions and Thai basil.  Serve immediately, garnishing with a sprinkle of scallions and black pepper.  YUM!  Makes about two lunch servings.

Update: Since I first drafted this post, Nemo dropped over 2 feet of snow on us, much to the kids delight. Check out time-elapsed footage of the storm here.  Mr. No Nom has been rather busy with the shoveling and even dug out two luge tracks in the backyard for the kids!  Massachusetts implemented a 24 hour travel ban, the MBTA has yet to resume service some 36 hours after the storm began, and Logan airport was shut down for 24 hours.  Keeping my fingers crossed that all gets back to normal in time for us to fly out on Thursday!

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Food for the greater good?

With a slow-going job search on my hands, lately I’ve been having entrepreneurial thoughts. Given my family’s disastrous experiments with business initiatives (failed restaurants, lost money, strained familial ties, etc., etc.) I am rather hesitant to even consider starting my own business. And yet the thoughts (and accompanying doubts) persist. So, what to do?

Various ideas have been tossed around in my head and I have even said them aloud a few times… and to real people! One idea is to start a vacation planning business focused on families with young children. I could do all the research for airfare, car rentals, vacation home rentals, and even suggest itineraries for sightseeing and touring. Another idea is start a meal service for families with newborn babies. I’ve been cooking a lot for friends with newborns these past few months and have always been shown much gratitude. I’ve made wontons, meatballs, roast chicken, even vegan soups. Yet another idea is cooking lessons in people’s homes–either in groups or one-on-one. We would agree in advance on a meal and I would shop for all the ingredients ahead of time. Oh, and then there’s the scary idea of running a food truck–shiver!

And yet I hesitate. Aside from the obvious usual anxieties about starting a business from scratch (i.e. how do I do something that actual generates a profit?), my main concern has been how to address the nagging need to make a difference, to have some kind of social impact. I mean, well-fed people will surely be happier people, but what inroads would that make towards reducing poverty, stabilizing families or increasing social justice? One friend actually suggested that I could cook for single mothers once a week. Another suggested that I use cooking lessons as a way to promote collaboration and brainstorming for social initiatives. And yet. What if I can’t reach vulnerable groups? What if my only clients are picky and difficult? What if I begin to dislike planning and cooking? What if I don’t like working alone? What if I fail?

I just don’t know.

It’s hard to imagine myself actually taking on any of these ventures, and yet I am doing them (with the exception of the food truck) regularly. But there’s something about being self-employed that I just can’t wrap my head around. There’s another part of me that tells me that I need to be a part of something bigger–that there’s safety in numbers, both in terms of job security and performance towards goals. That same part of me also yearns for the more traditional forms of recognition: salary, title, and renowned employer. I can’t help it because on some level all of this does matter.

So, what to do? How have any of you dealt with competing professional goals?

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Noodle snack: Mi xao

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If you’ve ever lived, vacationed, or worked with me, you know that I can EAT.  Former office mates will attest to my early lunch cravings (10:30-ish) and constant snacking.  In fact, at work retreats that lasted over several days at my former boss’ beach house, ample snacks were provided to prevent me from rummaging through the kitchen every couple of hours. Essentially, I eat every 2-3 hours–not always huge meals, but definitely something satisfying.  My cravings tend to the savory rather than sweet side, so my desk drawer usually had beef jerky, nuts, seaweed, dried fruits, and potato chips (especially the ones from Cosi that come with every sandwich).  Now that I’ve been at home, the refrigerator has been a good friend, full of yummy leftovers and bits and pieces of things that I often throw together on a whim.

Today, after a lunch of grilled ham and cheese, grape tomatoes, and a yogurt, I was feeling  hungry and still unsatisfied.  A quick inspection of the fridge yielded egg noodles (leftover from wonton soup), baby carrots, already chopped ginger and scallions (leftover from steamed fish) and rendered pork fat (leftover from roasted pork belly makings over the last couple of years).  The light bulb went off in my head and I fondly recalled my family’s obsession with mi xao: stir fried noodles with veggies and oyster sauce.  Right next to the egg rolls, mi xao showed up at every family gathering, so much so that I got sick of it and usually skipped it.  But today, a noodle snack was exactly what I needed! Quick note: I only found three servings of egg noodles though they usually come in fours, so scale up (or down) as needed.

3 servings fresh egg noodles, loosened (each package usually contains 4)
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons rendered pork fat (or two tablespoons canola oil)
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 scallions, chopped
3 tablespoons ginger, chopped
3/4 cup sliced carrots
1 small onion, sliced
1 1/2 tablespoon oyster sauce
black pepper

Bring a pot of water (about 2 quarts) to a boil, add the noodles and cook for about 60 seconds, swirling as needed.  Drain noodles and toss with sesame oil.  Set aside.

In a heavy pan, heat the pork fat until melted, then add garlic, ginger, sliced onions, and half of the chopped green onions.  Cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.  Add sliced carrots and cook until crisp-tender, about 1 minute.  Reduce heat to low and add noodles, oyster sauce and black pepper.  Toss to combine, taste and adjust flavorings as needed.  Sprinkle the rest of the green onions on and serve immediately with some hot sauce or chili peppers.  Makes about 4-5 appetizer size portions.

You can easily add any other vegetables or protein elements to the dish as well.  Just add chicken, pork, shrimp, tofu or beef to the pan and cook thoroughly before adding the noodles.

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Banh Cuon

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This may come as no surprise to most of you, but Vietnamese food just ain’t quick nor easy.  The soups can take upwards of 8 hours to simmer; there are endless vegetables and herbs to wash and chop; heck, even fish sauce takes forever to ferment (not that I recommend doing this  yourself).  Right up there in terms of difficulty and time-consuming is banh cuon–a delicate rice crepe filled with savory ground pork and wood ear mushrooms.  Every time I make this dish Mrs. Next Doors tells me I don’t have to, that I’m crazy.  Imagine pouring rice flour batter on a piece of cloth stretched over a boiling pot of water, then gently removing the steamed crepe with a flat wooden stick, and finally rolling it full of pork and mushroom.  Now imagine repeating that process at least nine more times, as that’s how many banh cuon a mildly hungry person could consume in mere minutes.  Forget about making banh cuon for a party–it would take you a whole day!  And just in case you don’t think that steaming individual crepes over a boiling pot of water is difficult, check it out here.

So, now that you are thoroughly intimidated, let’s get started!  Just kidding.  I learned to make banh cuon from watching my aunts, and thankfully, they did not use the steaming pot method; instead, they used a nonstick frying pan.  Yep, genius.  That said, the pan method still takes a long time and quite a bit of practice to produce paper-thin, translucent crepes.  Make sure the pan is hot, well oiled, and be quick with your wrist to swirl and shake the batter evenly as it hits the pan.  When you’re really feeling cocky and want to show off, get two pans going at once (juggling not required)! With just one pan, I can make about 60 banh cuon in 90 minutes, and that’s just the actual crepe making and rolling part.  Just saying.

Filling:
1 lb ground pork
2 cups shredded wood ear mushrooms (soak in warm water for 5 minutes,  rinse thoroughly, and drain)
1 cup yellow onion, finely chopped
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
3 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fish sauce

two packages banh cuon mix
2 tablespoons canola oil (or vegetable oil)
8 cups cold water
canola oil as needed (about 1/3 cup)

two romaine hearts, cut into thin strips, about 5 cups
one english cucumber, cut into match sticks
2 cups mint leaves, rinsed and thoroughly dried
3 cups bean sprouts, rinsed, quickly blanched in boiling water, and cooled to room temperature

nuoc cham
fried shallots
cha lua (optional)

photo-1Filling: Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil on medium high heat, add onion, shallot and garlic until fragrant–about 1 minute.  Add ground pork, salt, black pepper and fish sauce, and cook thoroughly, making sure to break any large chunks of meat into tiny pieces.  Add shredded wood ear mushrooms and stir to combine, cooking until nearly all the liquid at the bottom of the pan is gone–about 3 minutes.  Set aside to cool.

(Note: I use dried shredded wood ear mushrooms, which are then reconstituted in warm water.  You can also use whole dried ones that you can slice yourself.)

photo-4Crepe batter:  I use packaged banh cuon mix, because really, it’s already time-consuming enough without having to mix my own flour, etc.  In a large mixing bowl, whisk together one package of banh cuon mix with 4 cups cold water and 1 tablespoon oil.  Keep the whisk handy to keep the batter well mixed.

Crepe making: Heat a nonstick pan (either 8 or 10 inch works best) over medium-low heat until hot.  Using a pastry brush, apply oil to the pan and allow it to reheat briefly.  Holding the pan above the flame, quickly pour less than 1/4 cup batter (1/8 cup if using an 8 inch pan) into the pan while swirling and shaking the pan to create a thin crepe.  Don’t worry if there are any holes or if the crepe is oddly shaped; the goal here is thinness. Cover pan with a lid and cook for 1 minute. Brush oil on 1/2 of a cookie sheet and quickly flip the crepe onto the oiled surface.  If crepe does not immediately release, tap the pan handle against the cookie sheet rim firmly.

Once the crepe has released, carefully stretch it out to remove any wrinkles, but really don’t try too hard as blemishes are usually easy to conceal.  There are many ways to make the banh cuon, but my preferred way is to place a small amount (about 1 heaping tablespoon) of the filling in a straight line across the widest part of the crepe, then gently fold the crepe in half and roll into a log.  Et voila. Place the finished crepe on a plate or rectangular glass baking dish.  Repeat.   (Do not keep banh cuon in a warm oven as they will dry out.)

You’ll need to make about 10-16 per individual serving, depending on the size of the crepes and the appetite of the individual.  Alas, it won’t be quick but it will be good.

Once you’ve nearly used up all the batter, refill by whisking another bag of banh cuon mix with 4 cups water and 1 tablespoon oil and continue on your merry crepe-making way.

Note: Other folding/rolling options, include arranging the filling in a rectangular form in the middle and then folding the sides of the crepe to make a rectangular parcel that can then be folded in half again into a smaller rectangle. You can do a quick google search to see some what some of these options look like.

Plating: Banh cuon can be eaten warm or at room temperature. To warm, place a single layer of banh cuon on a plate or dish, cover with a damp paper towel and microwave for 30-60 seconds.  On a dinner plate, arrange 8-10 banh cuon atop a flat bed of lettuce, mint, cucumber, and bean sprouts.  Sprinkle with fried shallots and serve with nuoc cham for drizzling or dipping. Makes 6-8 servings.

Another popular accompaniment is cha lua, a bologna-like pork sausage that is steamed in banana leaves.  I am not a huge fan of cha lua, but many Vietnamese like it with banh cuon.  Cha lua can be purchased freshly made from a Vietnamese bakery or market (Vietnamese sandwich shops would also carry some).  If you would like to serve your banh cuon with cha lua, slice the log in half lengthwise and then slice each half into 1/8 inch thin semi-circles.  Arrange cha lua slices on top of the banh cuon.

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The soup

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It’s been over two months since I last posted and a lot has happened.  This blog is first and foremost about Vietnamese cooking, but I’ve always known that other topics would intrude.  I entitled the blog “in the soup” not just as a reference to all the wonderful Vietnamese soups that I love to make, but also as a reference to the complexities of life.  And I have been preoccupied with these complexities of late.

First, it was the election.  Though I hold liberal views for as long as I can remember, I do not usually consider myself to be very politically outspoken.  Living in ultra blue Massachusetts also made me less inclined to preach to the choir, and most of my friends are also pretty liberal.  But for some reason, the past two presidential elections have gotten me really worked up.  This time around, I found it hard to ignore the extreme positions and rhetoric espoused by the GOP and their presidential nominee.  I found myself oscillating between utter disbelief and anger.  My poor Facebook friends suffered a barrage of soapbox speeches on marriage equality, equal pay for equal work, access to family planning services, immigration reform, Obamacare, etc.  I even posted comments during the debates–using Facebook like a twitter account and disparaging the GOP ticket for everything from their policy positions to the sound of their voice and color of their spray tan.  I am thankful that no one unfriended me–that I know of–and that Mr. No Nom shares my values and is still my husband.  I (and my friends and family) breathed a heavy sigh of relief when it was all over.

Second, with Soup-er Girl finally starting daycare this past September, I finally launched into a painfully slow job search with a very narrow focus on venture philanthropy and nonprofit consulting.  Everyone can understand the cruelties of looking for work–whether you have pressing financial needs or looking for a career switch.  Writing resumes and cover letters are about as rewarding as eating a bad bowl of pho; not only do you have to find a way to toot your own horn without seeming to do so, but every job application is an invitation to be judged by strangers.  Oh, those automated email acknowledgements always say that applicants who are not further contacted shouldn’t feel any less accomplished, but really, does anyone ever buy that?  I know I don’t.  And then there’s the apprehension that I might actually get one of these jobs–yikes, how am I going to juggle a fulltime job and maintain the kind of family life to which we’ve grown accustomed?  How am I going to find the time to make giant vats of pho and bun bo hue?  At this point, I’m not sure if it’s better to be employed or not, though I surely sympathize with all working mothers out there.  So if anyone knows of a venture philanthropy position with great flexibility, please pass it along!

Then Thanksgiving came.  For the past 17 years I have spent Thanksgiving in Baltimore with Mr. No Nom’s family, which means that I usually don’t have to cook much and there are more people around to entertain the kids.  But traveling with two kids during the busiest travel time of the year is still exhausting, plus the airline lost one of our car seats.  Oy.

Of course, everyone knows that Thanksgiving is just the beginning of the holiday crazies.   I am only writing this post now because the rice and birthday candle menorah has been lighted (Mr. No Nom is half Jewish), all the holiday cards sent, the gifts wrapped or at least ordered, the outside lights are on, and the Christmas tree is properly trimmed.  Hopefully, Mrs. Next Doors and I will finally have some time to sit down and plan out the Christmas Eve feast.

PS. As I write this post, my heart hurts for the families in CT.  Like many parents, I cannot even begin to put into words how much this hurts and how very close to home it strikes.  I hug my children closer, grateful for our time together in this beautiful, bewildering, and sometimes heartbreaking world.  Happy holidays everyone.

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Europe part 3(ish): Soup-er Boy’s Paris

I love traveling with our children.  Yes, I’ve frequently outlined all the challenges of family travel, but there is nothing more amazing than seeing the world through the eyes of your children. I know that all of my parent readers will agree with this sentiment.  And it is particularly gratifying to experience a place that you love with your child–such is what happened in Paris.

When Soup-er Boy was two years old we took him to Paris and the French Open.  (Note to self: add tennis addict to my profile.)  Back then, I delighted in seeing him play in the Jardin du Luxembourg and watch tennis at Roland Garros.  But despite traipsing through 10 days in the City of Lights on buses, metros, and foot, he doesn’t recall any memories from that trip. He doesn’t remember our apartment in the 6th arr. He doesn’t remember visiting the Musee Rodin or the stained glass of Saint Chapelle.  He doesn’t remember all the delicious pastries and delicacies that he refused to eat.  And he doesn’t remember the red clay of Roland Garros. But I remember his joy at running through parks, peering at statues, and especially his fascination with the Parisian public works vehicles.

This time, he was a more conscious seven-year old, with desires to see the la Tour Eiffel and play with the boats in the Jardin du Luxembourg.  Now a tennis buff in his own right, he would’ve wanted to see tennis too had our trip coincided with the French Open.  (FYI, I’ve taught him well: allez Roger!)  Such as it was, the boats were mysteriously missing and we had to nix a trip to go op the Tower as the lines were 3+ hours long.  Disappointment aside, and believe me there was disappointment, he seemed to enjoy being in the city.  He didn’t complain (too much) about the long meandering walks, the endless shopping, or even the food.  In fact, he memorized the location of our apartment, learned how to order his own pain au chocolat, and eagerly conducted a chocolate macaron taste test (I think Laduree won).

While Soup-er Girl won’t have any memories of this trip, it warms my heart to know that her brother will.  He’ll have lots of fond memories of family strolls, scenic bus rides, Berthillon’s ice cream, macarons, and the numerous doors and coded entryways that led to our apartment in the Marais. He’ll remember the mornings that he and his sister rolled around under the covers while his parents tried in vain to ignore them and catch a few more minutes of sleep.  And he’ll remember that there’s unfinished business. He’s already thinking about planning ahead for the next trip so he can get advance tickets for la Tour Eiffel and play with the boats in the Jardin du Luxembourg.  Hopefully, that’ll also be the trip when his sister falls in love with this magical city.  And I’ll be right there with them.

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Hu tieu nam vang

I don’t know why Southeast Asia is home to so many different kinds of noodle soups, but I am thankful for it.  Beef, chicken, pork, seafood, you name it, we have a noodle soup for it!  One of my favorites as a child was hu tieu nam vang, often referred to as Phnom Penh soup given it’s Chinese/Cambodian origins. These days, hu tieu comes in many different forms and with an array of choices for toppings–from pork meat and shrimp to pork offal and quail eggs.  Sometimes it comes with soft rice noodles, sometimes with chewy tapioca noodles, and even with yellow egg noodles.  Sometimes served dry with soup in a separate bowl.  The varieties are endless and can be confusing.

Hu tieu starts with a pork-based broth with a hint of toasted dried squid or shrimp.  The broth was originally seasoned with only soy sauce, but the Vietnamese have added fish sauce, of course!  My favorite version comes with chewy noodles, sliced pork loin, sautéed ground pork, pork kidney or liver, poached shrimp, hardboiled quail eggs, and a generous sprinkling of fried shallots, chopped cilantro, chinese chives, and chinese celery.  Phew! But don’t let the numerous ingredients stop you from brewing up a pot–trust me, you’ll be quite pleased!

5 lbs pork bones
1.5 lbs pork loin
3-4 whole dried squid, lightly toasted
6 stalks Chinese celery, trimmed and rinsed
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup soy sauce

1 lb ground pork
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1 small shallot, finely chopped
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon fish sauce
2 tablespoon oyster sauce
black pepper

1 dozen quail eggs
12 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 500g package tapioca noodles

1 cup Chinese chives, rinsed and cut into 1-inch sections,, saving the tips for garnish
1 cup cilantro, rinsed and chopped
1 small yellow onion, sliced thinly
1/4 cup fried shallots
black pepper

2 cups bean sprouts, rinsed and dried
1 bunch Thai basil
lime wedges


Soup: Bring a large pot (6-8 qt.) of water to a boil and salt generously.  Working in batches, place several pieces of pork bone and meat in the water and allow to boil vigorously for 6-8 minutes to remove impurities.  Remove pork bones/meat, rinse and place in a fresh pot of water, making sure that everything is completely immersed.  (Don’t use a giant pot with too much water; an 8-10 qt. pot works well.)

In a toaster oven or pan, lightly toast 2-3 whole dried squid (also called cuttlefish) until you can smell them; remove and add to soup pot.

After about 1-1 1/2 hours the meat should be done–it should have the same firmness as the base of your thumb.  Remove and submerge immediately in cold water to prevent browning.  When cool, slice thinly and set aside.

Simmer bones and dried squid for at least 4 hours, skimming off fat/impurities and replenishing water as needed.  The longer you simmer the bones the better the broth; I usually aim for 6 hours but 4 hours will do.  Remove bones and strain broth if you’d like.  I don’t mind using an unstrained broth as long as it is not cloudy.

Cut the Chinese celery into 3-inch sections, saving some tips for garnish later.  Tie the celery into a bunch and add to soup, along with 1/4 cup fish sauce, 1/3 cup soy sauce, and 1 tablespoon salt.  Allow soup to simmer for another hour or so, and adjust seasonings before serving.

Ground pork: In a heavy pan, heat oil then add onions and shallot and saute until fragrant–about 1 minute.  Add ground pork, breaking up large chunks with a wooden spoon.  Add fish sauce, oyster sauce and ground pepper.  Saute until cooked through.  Set aside in a covered container.

Shrimp: To poach shrimp, place a few in a mesh sieve or strainer and plunge into simmering water or stocjk.  Remove after a couple of minutes–shrimp will turn pink and curl.  Repeat with all shrimp. Set aside in covered container.

Quail eggs: Cook these as you would hard boil an egg, just adjust cooking time to about 4-5 minutes. Cool in a bowl of cold water, peel and set aside.

Noodles: If using chewy tapioca noodles, try to get the Japanese brand pictured.  Sometimes the packaging is orange/red rather than green but the noodles are the same.  Bring a large pot of water (at least 4 quarts) to a boil and then add noodles, making sure that they are completely submerged.  (Note: The package below is for 500 grams and would make enough noodles for about 8 large servings.)  Cook noodles at a simmer for about 15 minutes until they are soft but still chewy.  Drain, rinse and separate into individual bowls–about 1 1/2 cups each.  If you are using rice noodles, try to get the pho-like noodles, either fresh or dry, and cook according to the instructions in the pho recipe.

Assembly:  In a bowl, layer first the noodles, then some sliced pork, ground pork, shrimp, quail eggs, cilantro, chinese chives and celery.  Add a dash of black pepper and a sprinkling of fried shallots.  Heat soup to a simmer and ladle into the bowl, making sure to pour some directly onto the cilantro, chives and celery to release the aromatics.  Serve immediately with a plateful of basil, bean sprouts, and lemon wedges.  Makes 6-8 servings.

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